Grading Pearls
Two major grading systems are in fairly widespread use: the AAA-A system and
the A-D system (also called the Tahitian system). These are the most accepted
systems, and considered standard by nearly all reputable pearl dealers and pearl
distributors.
Even these systems, however, can become misleading if a seller uses terms from
the grading system (such as "AAA"), but uses them to describe a different
quality pearl than that which the system is generally understood to be describing.
Or a seller could use a term not in the grading system (such as "AAAA")
to make it appear that the pearl is beyond even the highest standard quality
-- when in reality, that seller's "AAAA" pearls are actually equivalent
to the more-common "AAA" grade, and his "AAA" pearls might
only be equivalent to the commonly used "AA." Use of "AAAA"
or "AAA+" is considered bad taste, or even dishonesty, by most reputable
pearl dealers and pearl distributors.
For reasons such as these, it's extremely important when purchasing pearls
only, to be absolutely certain of the meaning of any descriptive terms used
by the seller. If possible, ask to see a written description of each grading
term, so that you know exactly what the grade implies. Reputable jewelers will
be happy to comply with such a request. Only in this way will you be able to
determine if the price the seller is asking is reasonable.
The AAA-A System
This system grades pearls on a scale from AAA to A, with AAA being the highest
grade, this grading scale is common to freshwater and akoya pearls only, but
is accepted by many with South Sea and Tahitian pearls as well:
AAA: The highest-quality pearl, virtually flawless. The surface will have a
very high luster, and at least 95% of the surface will be free from any type
of defect.
AA: The surface will have a very high luster, and at least 75% of the surface
will be free from any type of defect.
A: With a lower luster and/or more than 25% of the surface showing defects.
In many cases, if the pearl is being mounted into a piece of jewelry, it can
be mounted so that the defects are hidden -- thus providing a lovely jewelry
piece at a lesser price.
Some reputable sellers may use intermiate grades for the pearls - only those
that do not fall in a category but are between two - such as A+ and AA+.
Obviously, these grading categories are quite broad and leave room for interpretation
and individual judgment. Also note that in multi-pearl pieces such as strands,
necklaces, bracelets, etc., all of the individual pearls may not absolutely
meet the indicated grade level. For example, a strand referred to as "AAA"
must have most of its pearls as AAA pearls. However, a few pearls could have
slightly lower luster or a tiny bit more surface defects. This is because matching
is also a primary consideration in multi-pearl jewelry, sometimes even overriding
a very strict grading of each individual pearl.
The A-D System (or Tahitian System)
This system grades pearls on a scale from A to D, with A being the highest
grade. This is the system used in French Polynesia (based on a government standard
there) to grade Tahitian pearls, and South Sea pearls only. It is therefore
sometimes referred to as the "Tahitian system."
A: The highest-quality pearl, with very high luster with only minor imperfections
over less than 10% of its surface.
B: High or medium luster. Surface may have some visible imperfections, but over
no more than 30% of its area.
C: Medium luster with surface defects over not more than 60% of the surface
area.
D: May have many slight defects, but no deep ones, spread over 60% of its surface;
or deep defects over no more than 60% of its surface; or a combination of minor
and deep defects over no more than 60% of its surface. In this grade of pearl,
the luster is irrelevant. Even the most lustrous pearls will be graded D if
their surface is blemished to this extent.
Pearls below D grade are considered not acceptable for use in jewelry.
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